It seems like everything that I’ve been sewing lately has been tiny. I guess I’m just really enjoying the fast and easy projects lately! Today, I’m sharing a new tutorial for you: the Tiny Circle Zipper Pouch!

These little pouches sure are tiny, but they are perfect for holding lip balm, hair ties, small earphones, or loose change and bills.

You can quickly make one of your own (or to give as a gift!) with just a few supplies! Let’s get going on the tutorial:

Tiny Circle Zipper Pouch

Supply Requirements:
Fabric: (4) 5″ x 5″ squares + (1) 1 1/2″ x 3″ strip
Fusible Interfacing (optional): (2) 4 3/4″ x 4 3/4″ squares
Zipper: 8″ or longer zipper (a longer zipper can always be cut down). I recommend a standard size #3 nylon (plastic teeth) zipper
Hardware (optional): 1/2″ D ring or 1/2″ swivel hook for hang tab
Circle Template: You can download and print my 4 1/2″ diameter circle template here: Center Street Quilts Circle Pouch Template, or use a circle ruler or circular object you have at home that is a similar size.

Note: from the fabric requirements, two of the 5″ squares will be for the outside of the zipper pouch (referred to as Main fabric), the other two 5″ squares will be for the inside of the zipper pouch (referred to as the Lining fabric), and the 1 1/2″ x 3″ strip will be for the hang tab.

1. From the (4) 5″ x 5″ squares, pick two to be the Main fabric (outside of the zipper pouch) and two to be the Lining fabric (inside of the zipper pouch). If using fusible interfacing, follow the manufacturer’s instructions to fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the two Main fabric pieces.

2. Take one of the Main fabric squares and one of the Lining fabric squares and cut each in half one way to yield two pieces, each 5″ wide by 2 1/2″.

3. Place the zipper right side up and sandwich it between a 5″ x 2 1/2″ Lining piece on the bottom and a 5″ x 2 1/2″ Main fabric piece on the top, with both fabric pieces facing in toward each other and the zipper. Align the bottom edges as shown below in the photo.

4. Sew the three layers (Lining, zipper, and Main) together along the edge.

5. Flip the Main and Lining fabric pieces away from the zipper (press if needed, but avoid touching the iron to the plastic zipper teeth!) and top stitch along the edge of the fabric to hold it in place and away from the zipper.

6. Repeat with the remaining two 5″ x 2 1/2″ fabric pieces, by placing the zipper right side up sandwiched with the fabric pieces. The Lining will be on the bottom and the Main fabric on the top, both facing in toward the zipper as shown below.

7. Attach the layers together, then flip the Main and Lining away from the zipper and top stitch along the edge of the Main fabric.

8. Place a circle template with a 4 1/2″ diameter on top of the fabric + zipper (you can find my printable template here: Center Street Quilts Circle Pouch Template). Move the zipper pull to the center of the zipper (so it doesn’t get cut off!). Trace the circle template onto the fabric then cut out the circle shape to create the Zipper Circle. As you cut over the zipper teeth, use a pair of utility scissors so as to not dull your fabric scissors.

9. Use the circle template to cut circles from the remaining two 5″ x 5″ fabric squares (one Lining and one Main).

10. Fold the 1 1/2″ x 3″ strip in half the long way and press to make a strip 3/4″ x 3″. Unfold and fold the long sides into the pressed line and press. Refold at original line and top stitch the skinny strip along both long edges.

11. If using a D ring or swivel hook, place it on the hang tab. Fold the hang tab in half to make a loop and place the raw ends at the top, center spot of the Zipper Circle. Attach with a 1/8″ seam.

12. Place the Main fabric circle on top of the Zipper Circle, right sides together, as shown below. Clip or pin to hold into place, then sew around the entire circle with a 1/4″ seam. Backstitch a couple times over the zipper teeth (if the zipper teeth are plastic, you can sew right over them!) to really secure the seam there, as it will be a point of stress when the pouch is turned right side out.

13. Flip the Zipper Circle so the Lining side is up (you will be looking at the wrong side of the zipper. Place the remaining Lining fabric circle piece right sides together on top of the Zipper Circle as shown below.

14. Sew around most of the circle with a 1/4″ seam, leaving about a 2″ opening (to turn the pouch right side out). I like to place the opening on the bottom part of the circle so the opening isn’t across either of the zipper ends or the hang tab.

15. Using the opening, flip the pouch through the hole so the Lining side is facing out. Fold the raw edges at the opening in towards each other and clip or pin in place. Using a spray bottle can make these pieces a bit more pliable and an iron can also be useful to get them to bend the right way.

16. Close the opening either by machine or hand stitching (my preferred method, as it tends to result in a nicer looking finish). Turn the pouch right side out through the zipper so the Main fabric is on the outside. Use a point turner or a blunt stick to get all of the edges turned out nice and sharp (an iron can also help with any wrinkles that formed while turning the pouch right side out).

17. Fill your Tiny Circle Zipper Pouch with your favorite tiniest objects and enjoy!

The Tiny Circle Zipper Pouch can be adjusted in size (just use a different size circle template!), but I’d suggest not going smaller than a 3 1/2″ diameter circle template. Anything smaller gets a bit ridiculous to sew and turn right side out, plus not much would fit in that small of a pouch anyway (although, it sure would be cute!).

Thanks for following along on today’s tutorial! You can watch a short video tutorial of the Tiny Circle Zipper Pouch on my instagram account HERE.

Happy sewing!

Kristina

Today, I’m sharing a quick little sewing tutorial for a tiny trinket basket. These cute little baskets are perfect for putting sewing notions like binding clips or safety pins in an easy to reach spot next to your machine, storing small pieces of jewelry, or keeping all those odds and ends on your desk or dresser contained. And if you have little kids in your life, you just know they could find 101 uses for these baskets (why do they always have so many tiny treasures laying around?!?).

Plus, these baskets are made from just two squares of fabric! Can it get any easier?!?

Below, I have the free tutorial for the basket in the photo above, but if you’re interested in a PDF printable pattern that includes not only this basket, but two additional sizes (look how cute they all are together in the photo below!), check out my shop HERE for the Trio of Trinket Baskets digital pattern. Plus, you can find the video tutorial to these cute baskets on my Instagram account HERE.

Tiny Trinket Basket Tutorial

Finished Size: 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″  x 3″ (width x depth x height)
Find the video tutorial to the Tiny Trinket Basket on my Instagram account HERE.

Supply List:
(2) 10″ x 10″ pieces of fabric
Optional: (2) 8 3/4″ x 8 3/4″ pieces of lightweight fusible interfacing (such as Pellon SF101). Fusible interfacing isn’t necessary, but will give the basket more structure.

1. From each 10″ square, first cut 1″ long strips from two sides of the square to make a square 9″ x 9″. If using fusible interfacing, follow the manufacturer’s instructions to fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the 9″ square.

2. Cut 3″ x 3″ squares from each of the four corners to create a “plus” shape.

3. Place the sides from the cut corners together and sew them with a 1/4″ seam.

4. Repeat with the other corners, then repeat the lining fabric, too, to make two basket shapes.

5. Take two of the 1″ strips and place them right sides together. Using a 1/4″ seam, sew down both long sides to attach the strips. Turn right side out (a tube turner, safety pin, or bodkin work well for getting the tube turned right side out). Top stitch along the long edges. Cut two handles, each 4″ in length.

6. Sew the handle ends to the top of the main fabric basket (sew to the right/front side of the fabric).

7. Keep the main fabric basket wrong side out and turn the lining fabric basket right side out. Place the lining fabric inside the main fabric and line up the seams in the corners. Clip to keep in place.

8. Sew around three of the four sides of the baskets, 1/2″ from the top raw edge (the fourth side will not be sewn to leave a hole to turn everything right side out).

9. Turn the basket right side out through the hole and turn the raw edges of the fourth side towards each other into the seam to conceal any raw edges. Pressing around the top seam can get the edges to lay flat. Keeping the handles out of the way, top stitch around the entire perimeter of the top of the basket to close up the hole and finish your basket.

Fill your new basket with your tiniest treasures and enjoy! Then immediately plan your next one.

Remember, if you enjoyed making this sweet little basket, I have the Trio of Trinket Baskets PDF pattern in my shop HERE. You can download the PDF pattern for easy reference and make a darling matching set in three different sizes.

Aren’t those three baskets just so fun together?!?

You can find the video of the Tiny Trinket Basket on my Instagram account HERE.

Happy sewing!

Kristina

Today I’m sharing a super fast and fun tutorial: a small vinyl zipper pouch! These little pouches are perfect for storing tiny notions: think binding clips, mini charms, and small thread snips or small cosmetics like lip balm, mascara, and a compact mirror. Plus with only two items needed for each pouch, they are really affordable to make, too!

Before we get started, here are a few tips for working with vinyl:

• When vinyl is sewn through, the sewing machine needle makes a hole in it. Unlike sewing through cotton fabric, the puncture made in vinyl is permanent and easily visible if the thread needs to be taken out of the seam. For this reason, I always sew extra slow when sewing with vinyl so as to minimize the chance of having to redo any seams.
• For holding vinyl pieces in place, I frequently use Wonder Clips, but never pins, as the pins will put a permanent hole in the vinyl.
• Vinyl has a tendency to cling to certain surfaces, including your presser foot and needle plate, so you’ll want to make accommodations so the vinyl doesn’t stick to the presser foot. I use either a non-stick presser foot (HERE’s the one that I have for my Juki), or small strips of thin paper in between the vinyl and presser foot. The paper will keep the vinyl from sticking to the presser foot and you can sew right through it then gently tear the paper away after finishing the seam. I used the paper strips method for years before finally purchasing a non-stick presser foot. You can also use a piece of paper under the vinyl to keep it from sticking to your machine bed.

All of the instructions for sewing the small vinyl zipper pouch are below, but I’ve also shared a short video on my Instagram account that you can watch the process, too. You can find that video HERE. 

Let’s get to the pouch tutorial!

Small Vinyl Zipper Pouch Tutorial

Finished Size: 5″ x 5″

Supplies Needed
6″ x 10″ piece of vinyl (I’d recommend between 12 and 20 gauge or 0.3-0.5 mm thickness)
10″ long zipper
Note: For the pouch in this tutorial, all supplies are from the online shop Zipper Valley.

1. Lay out your piece of vinyl (6″ wide and 10″ tall) with the zipper at the top above one of the 6″ sides. The zipper should open on the left.

2. Flip the zipper so it’s on top of the vinyl, right sides together. The 10″ long zipper sides will overhang the 6″ width of the vinyl on each side.

3. Sew the zipper to the vinyl with a 1/4″ seam allowance.

4. Turn the vinyl to the front side and bend the tiny strip of vinyl in the seam allowance back on itself (wrong sides together) so the zipper tape lays flat. Top stitch along the edge of the vinyl by the zipper tape, catching the vinyl in the seam allowance underneath. This top stitch edge will keep the vinyl and zipper tape from the seam allowance out of the way of the zipper.

5. Wrap the other 6″ end of the vinyl up to the other side of the zipper tape, so the right side of the vinyl is facing the right side of the zipper (the wrong side of the vinyl will be facing outward and the right side of the vinyl will be facing in). Sew the vinyl and zipper together with a 1/4″ seam.

6. Turn the vinyl right side out, open the zipper as far as you can and top stitch the edge of the vinyl as you did in Step 4.

7. Turn the vinyl wrong side out and orient the zipper so it is approximately 1″ to 1 1/2″ down from the top fold of the vinyl, as shown in the photo below. Clip the sides to hold into place and sew up both sides of the pouch with a 1/2″ seam. When sewing over the zipper teeth, backstitch several times to secure, as this will be an area of high stress when turning the pouch right side out.

8. Trim any excess zipper length that hangs past the edge of the vinyl.

9. Turn the vinyl pouch right side out through the zipper opening. Tip: the hot air from a hair dryer can help the vinyl be more pliable and easier to turn right side out.

These cute little pouches can, of course, be made in different sizes to fit your needs. Although, be aware that the smaller the size, and the thicker the vinyl, the harder it will be to turn the pouch right side out.

Remember, you can watch the video of the small vinyl zipper pouch on my instagram account HERE.

Happy sewing!

Kristina

Welcome to the Atlas Zipper Case Sew Along Day 5!

Today we’re finishing up our Atlas Zipper Cases by first installing the zipper, then adding the bias binding and zipper tab.

The biggest tip I have for today is to SEW SLOWLY! I know it gets exciting to be at the end and wanting to quickly finish, but I’ve found that when I try to rush through these last couple steps, I end up using the seam ripper more than I want. Haha!

When installing the zipper around the curves of the Zipper Case, I really take my time–stopping the needle every two to three stitches to lift the presser foot, rotate the Case, and adjust the zipper to make sure it’s not folded over anywhere. Since you don’t want your finger too close to the needle, you can use a seam ripper or tool called a stiletto (By Annie makes a great one!) to reach in by the needle and hold the zipper in place as you slowly sew everything in to place.

When sewing both the zipper and bias binding, I tend to have a hard time keeping a consistent seam allowance. Part of this is due to the thickness of the Zipper Case fluctuating as you sew over the pockets, binding, and zippers. After attaching the first side of the bias binding, I always go back through and see how my seam allowance is looking. Is it really small in some areas? If so, I go back through and do another stitch line in that area to get it closer to 1/4″. Is it too big in some areas? If so, I either unpick to resew at a 1/4″ seam allowance, or I trim the bulk in the seam allowance so the binding can get up and around the raw edge. Keeping a consistent 1/4″ seam allowance will help the bias binding look more uniform on both the inside and outside of the Zipper Case.

If you’re finishing the bias binding off by machine, frequently check to make sure that the zipper is always pointing in toward the center of the Zipper Case and out of the way of the needle. It has a tendency to fold back on itself and get in the way of the needle, especially around the corners! If the zipper does get folded under the needle, you’ll need to unpick that section and resew to make sure the zipper is fully functional.

Even with the experience that I have, I am still not always in love with how my bias binding looks when finishing it by machine, so I’ll frequently hand bind it instead. It takes a bit longer, but I’m always so much happier with the end result.

Those are my tips for Day 5! Thanks so much for joining me in the Atlas Zipper Case Sew Along! The Sew Along blog posts and videos on my Instagram account will stay put, so you can refer to them whenever you want. If you share any photos of your Atlas Zipper Case on Instagram, please tag me, as I’d love to see your Case!

Links for products from today’s assignment:

By Annie Stiletto Tool (click HERE)
By Annie Zippers by the Yard (click HERE)
Juki TL2000 Sewing Machine (click HERE)

Thanks for sewing along!

Kristina

Welcome to Day 4 of the Atlas Zipper Case Sew Along!

Today, we’re assembling the Double Pocket Panel and then sewing both Pocket Panels to our Main Quilted Panel. These steps are extremely satisfying, because we finally get to see our zipper case take shape!

Assembling the Double Pocket Panel isn’t too different from assembling the Tall Vinyl Pocket yesterday, but I do want to mention just a couple tips.

If you find the panel is hard to manage with all the zippers and pieces, try sewing a line across the open end of the zippers at the far left side of the panel to keep the zipper tapes from flapping apart. This will also add a layer of protection so the zipper pulls don’t accidentally slide off! It might be hard to see, but in the photo below, I have stitched to the left of the zipper pulls–just inside where the vinyl ends. If you’re using vinyl (plastic) zippers, you can just sew right over the zipper teeth.

If you want to add a new option to your Atlas Zipper Case, try substituting one of the pockets for mesh. Mesh is a fun textile to use and it adds just a bit of stretch to the pocket, so you might be able to fit a few extra items in your case. If you’re wanting to replace one of the vinyl pockets for mesh, cut the mesh the same dimensions as the vinyl listed in the Cutting Instructions, then follow all the assembly directions exactly the same. My favorite brand of mesh to purchase is By Annie, as it’s easy to work with and comes in a handful of colors (links at the end of the post). In the photo below, I’ve replaced the fabric pocket on the bottom with a piece of mesh.

When attaching the two pockets to the Main Quilted Panel, sew the pockets on using a small 1/8″ seam so the seam will be hidden by the zipper and binding that we’re attaching tomorrow. I will regularly backstitch where the binding of the pockets begin at the top and bottom of the panel, because that is a spot of higher stress as the slip pockets are pulled forward to allow items to slide in. In the photo below, you can see that the stitch line attaching the Double Pocket to the Main Quilted Panel is right along the edge.

Those are my tips for Day 4! You can find the video that goes along with today’s assignment on my Instagram account HERE.

Links for products from today’s assignment:

By Annie Mesh (click HERE)
By Annie Zippers by the Yard (click HERE)
Juki TL2000 Sewing Machine (click HERE)

Happy sewing!

Kristina

Welcome to Day 3 of the Atlas Zipper Case Sew Along!

Today, we are assembling the Tall Vinyl Pocket. This pocket has one large vinyl zipper pocket and will go on the left side of our zipper case (when it’s laying open).

Most of today’s assignment is centered around vinyl, so here are a few things to note about working with vinyl:

• When vinyl is sewn through, the sewing machine needle makes a hole in it. Unlike sewing through cotton fabric, the puncture made in vinyl is permanent and easily visible if the thread needs to be taken out of the seam. For this reason, I always sew extra slow when sewing with vinyl so as to minimize the chance of having to redo any seams. In most instances for the Atlas Zipper Case, if you sew one of the bindings on the vinyl and make a mistake, you can likely seam rip the thread out, then cover the existing holes in the vinyl with the binding fabric.
• For holding vinyl pieces in place, I frequently use Wonder Clips, but never pins. As I’m sure you have guessed by now, the pins will put a permanent hole in the vinyl.
• I always use my regular Organ brand 90/14 needles when sewing vinyl. I would guess that sewing through vinyl would make the needle get dull faster, but Organ brand needles are really inexpensive (link HERE), so they are still economical if you’re changing them regularly.
• Vinyl has a tendency to cling to certain surfaces, including your presser foot and needle plate. If you’re sewing on vinyl that’s facing up, you’ll want to make accommodations so the vinyl doesn’t stick to the presser foot. I use either a non-stick presser foot (I’ve linked the one that works with my Juki at the bottom of the post), or small strips of thin paper in between the vinyl and presser foot. The paper will keep the vinyl from sticking to the presser foot and you can sew right through it then gently tear the paper away after finishing the seam. I used the paper strips method for years before finally purchasing a non-stick presser foot. In the photo below, you can see the thin strip of paper in between the presser foot and vinyl. It’s such an easy method and works great!

• If you’re sewing with the vinyl face down against the needle plate and machine bed, there are products that are made to make your machine bed more slippery so the vinyl doesn’t stick to the sewing machine. I haven’t used any of these products, so I can’t speak to their effectiveness, but did want to mention them in case anyone wants to check them out (I’ve heard of both a spray and a slippery mat that lays on top of the machine bed). Instead, I prefer to gently pull on the side of the vinyl that’s made it through the needle to help the piece travel under the needle without sticking too much to the needle plate. It might also help to check your presser foot pressure. If your presser foot is pushing down really hard against your vinyl/fabric, then the vinyl will be more likely to stick as it goes through the needle.
• In the photo below, I am attaching the Binding to the side of the Tall Vinyl Pocket Panel. The piece of vinyl is face down against the needle plate, and it was sticking slightly to the machine bed. You can see my left hand gently pulling the piece through the needle, helping out those feed dogs push the vinyl through. I’m also lifting the panel up a bit to try to keep the vinyl off of the machine bed as much as possible. You can also use the paper trick here, too! Put a piece of paper under as much of the vinyl as you want, and the vinyl won’t have a chance to stick to the bed.

• When adding binding and the zipper to the vinyl, I’ve purposefully made the pieces a little larger than the Quilted Accent piece that the vinyl will be sewn to. Making it oversized uses only slightly more material, but results in a much nicer finished product. It’s hard to get all those bindings to line up perfectly with the zipper and vinyl without having any wiggle-room! So starting off larger and then trimming to size is my preferred method when dealing with many different pieces.

Those are my tips for Day 3! You can find the video that goes along with today’s assignment on my Instagram account HERE.

Links for products from today’s tips:

Non-Stick Presser Foot that fits Juki TL2000 and TL2010 machines–it’s under $5! (click HERE)
Juki TL2000 Sewing Machine (click HERE)
Organ 90/14 needles (click HERE)

Thanks for sewing along with me!

Kristina

Welcome to Day 2 of the Atlas Zipper Case Sew Along!

Today is all about prepping the Binding fabric pieces. The Binding A, B, and C strips will be sewn on the pockets inside the case, with Bindings A and B being placed horizontal on your pockets, and Binding C vertical (this information can be useful if you’re using directional fabric for the Binding fabric, otherwise there’s no need to worry about their orientation while cutting them out). After following the pressing directions for the Binding strips and Zipper Tab, you’re ready to move on to the Bias Binding.

Bias binding has a reputation of being intimidating, but it really doesn’t need to be! Bias binding is just binding that is cut diagonally (at a 45 degree angle) instead of with the grain of the fabric. The benefit of cutting binding on the diagonal is that when fabric is cut on the bias, it allows the binding to stretch a little. This stretch becomes our best friend when binding around curves!

There are many different ways to make bias binding, so if you’ve learned and prefer a different way than what is shown in the pattern, then please feel free to use that technique. The method that I share in the pattern is my favorite way to make bias binding when I only need a small amount. It’s a relatively simple method, and one that I can remember without too much difficulty. 🙂

Since I can’t show the process to all of you in person (and photographs aren’t any more helpful than the diagrams in the pattern), I did the next best thing and made a video of making bias binding. Yay! You can catch the video on my instagram account HERE.

Link’s for today’s assignment:

Oliso Iron: click HERE
Wool Pressing Mat (I’ve used three different brands of wool pressing mats and they’ve all worked great! If you’re looking for one, I’d suggest finding a brand that has the size you want and then checking reviews). Here’s a link to one that I own: click HERE
Olfa Rotary Cutter: click HERE
Olfa Ruler: click HERE

Thanks for sewing along!

Kristina

Welcome to Day 1 of the Atlas Zipper Case Sew Along!

I’m so excited that you want to make the Atlas Zipper Case with me! I originally posted these Sew Along tips and tricks in November 2024 in conjunction with a Sew Along I hosted. I’m posting the daily assignments and bonus tips here to my blog for those who didn’t get a chance to join the Sew Along. You can find the Atlas Zipper Case pattern HERE and follow along with the Sew Along Blog posts to make your own!

The assignment for the Atlas Zipper Case Sew Along Day 1 is to cut everything out, then baste and quilt the Main and Lining fabric. Cutting everything out is pretty self explanatory, but I did want to mention a couple things. First, feel free to mix up your fabric selections and use additional prints from what is listed in the Supply Requirements if you’d like! For example, you can split the Lining and Binding fabrics up into two fat quarters each (instead of ½ yard each) to give more variety to your prints. Second, if you are using a directional fabric for your Main, Lining, or Accent fabrics, pay close attention to the dimensions and the diagram on the Cutting Instructions page. Everything in the pattern is written as width x height, so make sure you orient your directional prints accordingly.

One other note before we start: Whenever I’m quilting fabric for a bag, I almost always start off with a bigger size than necessary, then trim to size after quilting. The process of quilting often shrinks the panel (the denser the quilting, the greater the shrinkage), and sometimes the layers shift a little, too. The extra size is always built into my patterns, so no need to cut even larger than the Cutting Instructions given.

Now, on to basting our fabric!

PREPARE FOR BASTING

Before I start basting, I try to make sure that all of my layers are pressed really well. This will help everything lay smoother and you’ll be less likely to get puckers in the fabric when you quilt.

I’d even recommend pressing the batting or Soft and Stable (or other foam stabilizer–unless it’s fusible!) before layering. Both batting and Soft and Stable press well and having the wrinkles pressed out will really help all the layers stay flat.

BASTING

Basting is a way to temporarily hold layers of fabric together. We don’t want the layers to move around while we’re quilting, so we baste them for the best results.

There are many different methods of basting (pins, adhesive spray, sewing long stitches, etc.). I’d recommend trying a few out so you can figure out which method you like best.

I prefer to spray baste smaller projects with Odif 505, but I frequently use safety pins for larger projects.

PREPARE FOR QUILTING

Once I have my layers basted, I choose a side of the panel that I can start most of my quilting lines from and stitch a line along one of the edges (just 1/8″ away from the raw edge) to stabilize the three layers.

Even though we’ve already basted, if you start your machine quilting from that stitched line as much as possible, it will further help keep the layers from shifting.

MARKING QUILTING LINES

When I’m quilting a design that needs guides to follow, I like to use a Hera Marker to mark my lines (it only leaves an impression-not an actual ink mark). The dull side of a butter knife also works great!

There are many other ways to make guide lines (air/water erasable pens, strips of tape, etc.) or forgo the lines altogether and choose an organic design that doesn’t need lines to follow. If you’d like to see some of these other method in action, check out the video I shared on my Instagram account HERE.

QUILTING

To keep things easy when I quilt, I use the same thread and needle that I use for all of my general sewing projects (my thread of choice is Aurifil 50 wt and I like to use Organ 90/14 needles).

For machine quilting, I do like to increase my stitch length a little. A standard stitch length on my machine is 2.5 and I like to increase it to about 3.5 for quilting. You can play around with your machine’s settings to see what you prefer.

When quilting on my Juki sewing machine, I use a slim presser foot to quilt smaller projects. The Juki comes with a walking foot, however I’ve found that it doesn’t work really well (one of the machine’s only downfalls) and I prefer to use a regular presser foot. If I’m quilting a larger project then I get out my second machine (a Bernina) and use it with a walking foot. The walking foot can really help feed the layers through at the same speed and avoid puckering. If you have a walking foot, I’d generally recommend using it to quilt, or at least trying it out to see if it works better for quilting.

For this Atlas Zipper Case, I’m quilting a diamond design, using the 60 and 30 degree lines on my ruler. If you’re wanting some additional ideas for easy machine quilting designs, check out the Instagram video I posted HERE.

TRIM THE QUILTED PANEL

When you’re finished quilting, trim your quilted panels (both the Main Quilted Panel and the Accent Quilted Panels) to the size listed on page 4 of the Atlas Zipper Case pattern.

Those are my tips for Day 1! You can find the video that goes along with today’s assignment on my instagram account HERE.

Links for products from today’s tips:

Odif 505 Spray (click HERE)
Oliso Iron (click HERE)
Juki TL2000 Sewing Machine (click HERE)
Olfa Ruler (click HERE)
Hera Marker (click HERE)
Organ 90/14 needles (click HERE)

Thanks for sewing along with me!

Kristina

Meet the Atlas Zipper Case Pattern!

The Atlas Zipper Case is the perfect quilted organizer to keep your items contained and orderly. The inside includes two large slip pockets, one large zipper pocket, and two small zipper pockets that are great for storing sewing supplies, electronics, jewelry, makeup, art supplies, or everyday essentials.

The outside of the Atlas Zipper Case is secured with a zipper closure, keeping everything safe inside.

The Atlas Zipper Case pattern has clear, easy to follow instructions, full color diagrams, and is available as a digital download so you can get sewing right away. You can find the Atlas Zipper Case pattern in my shop HERE.

I get asked all the time about where to find specific supplies, so I thought I’d put together a list of items that I have personally purchased and used for the Atlas Zipper Case (and other bag sewing projects). Many of the products are linked to Amazon, because I know that’s an easy source for a lot of people to purchase items from. Please feel free to check out other options, too, as you can likely find the products elsewhere.

Supply Recommendations:

Zippers:

I recommend using a larger size #4.5 or #5 zipper by the yard for the 30″ zipper needed in the Atlas Zipper Case pattern. Either standard size #3 zippers (like what you’d find at JoAnn or Hobby Lobby) or the larger zippers will work for the three 10″ zippers you need for the pattern. When using larger #4.5 or #5 zippers, I like to use zippers by the yard, as zippers by the yard allow you to cut exactly how much zipper tape you need and usually come with extra zipper pulls to use for additional projects.

By Annie zippers by the yard: Amazon
Sallie Tomato zippers by the yard (I’ve used Sallie Tomato zippers in both size #3 and size #5 and they are both high quality and easy to get the pull back on): Amazon
Metal Look zippers by the yard for a great price (I’ve purchased this brand multiple times and really like them!): Amazon
Zipper Valley Zippers have a great variety of colors and options: Zipper Valley

Vinyl:

Vinyl might feel intimidating to work with, but it’s really not! Once you use it a time or two, you’ll likely wonder why you didn’t try it earlier. I prefer using 16 gauge vinyl, but a thinner 12 gauge will also work well for this pattern. The By Annie vinyl is my favorite brand to use, but I have purchased other vinyl with great success, including from JoAnn Fabrics (likely found on the long rolls by the upholstery fabric) and Amazon. Just check the gauge to make sure it’s not going to be too thick or too thin.

By Annie Vinyl is my favorite brand. It comes in a roll and has a nice weight to it. You can find it at a variety of places including: Fat Quarter Shop, Zipper Valley, and various Etsy shops.
If you’re feeling extra fun, check out Zipper Valley’s selection of printed and colored vinyl! They have such a fun assortment!

Quilting material:

I prefer using Soft and Stable in between my layers as I quilt. Soft and Stable is a foam stabilizer that gives more structure and protection than a regular batting. There are other foam stabilizers (like Pellon Flex Foam) that also work well–just make sure you are getting a big enough piece for your project. You can also use regular batting like Warm and Natural or Hobbs Heirloom batting (these pouches are GREAT for using up batting scraps left over from quilts!).

Soft and Stable: Amazon
Pellon Flex Foam: Amazon. (Pellon Flex Foam comes in 20″ width, so make sure it’s big enough for your project! Also, Pellon Flex Foam has fusible options–I prefer the non-fusible versions, but the fusible work well, too).

Other Sewing Supplies:

Hera Marker for marking straight quilting lines: Amazon
Wonder Binding Clips. (I use these ALL the time to hold things in place while I sew): Amazon
Creative Grids Circle Ruler Set. This ruler set comes with five different sizes and I’ve been surprised by how much I use them!  Amazon link

Please let me know if you have any other requests for supply recommendations. You can always look at my Amazon Favorites page HERE for items that I have purchased and use regularly.

Happy sewing!

Kristina

Welcome to Day 5 of the Hemingway Pouch Sew Along! Today, I’m sharing some tips for making a mini Hemingway Pouch from the triangle cut-off.

Making a mini Hemingway Pouch from the triangle cut-off works best when using the triangle piece from the Large or Extra Large sizes of the Hemingway Pouch, but if you’re feeling up to a challenge, feel free to try the triangle from the smaller sizes, too.

When making a mini Hemingway Pouch, I like to trim at least a little bit off of the triangle tip. This will keep the zipper out of the corner seam (that corner seam that is hard to pop right side out).

Play around with your triangle piece–you can keep it intact and not trim any off, you can trim a tiny bit off like I did below, or you can trim a larger piece off. The more you trim off, the taller and thinner your pouch will be. The less trimmed off, the wider and shorter your pouch will be.

From here, the steps are pretty much the same as making a full sized Hemingway Pouch. You’ll first want to add the Zipper Binding. Cut the Zipper Binding strip the same width as the pattern calls for, then measure the diagonal length and add a couple extra inches to determine the length of your binding strip. Once the Zipper Binding is on, sew the zipper on just like a regular Hemingway Pouch.

Next, you’ll want to turn your pouch inside out, line up the raw edges and sew along the two open sides to close up the pouch. Cut another Binding strip long enough to cover those two raw edges and attach just as you would a Hemingway Pouch.

Turn your pouch right side out, press the corners out, and admire your mini Hemingway!

You can see that with my pouch above, the zipper comes really close to the bottom right corner. If you don’t start by trimming off a piece of the triangle, the zipper will go from top left to bottom right corner. Still really cute, but it does make turning the bottom right corner out a little bit harder.

I love that the mini pouch matches my Large size Hemingway Pouch. Such a perfect set!

Thanks so much for sewing along with me!

-Kristina